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The traditional version of gaz, a Persian nougat studded with nuts, gets its sweetness from the excretions of a bug called the tamarisk manna scale, which is found on tamarisk trees in central Iran. (Originally, people believed the excretions to be sap because they dried on tree branches. Not so.) The candy comes from Isfahan and is made by combining the aforementioned excretions with starch, egg whites and sugar, heating it until it becomes the texture of paste and then stirring in pistachios. It’s often formed into logs and served in rounds. Good news for the squeamish: Most versions you find now are made with other sweeteners.

“They’re made from recycled plastic milk bottles, but I recently found out to make recycled plastic you need to add new plastic. I couldn’t believe it!” she says. She then taps a brightly patterned coffee cup by Hong Kong company Ecoffee. “These are made with bamboo fibre. I was wary of having them originally as they’re quite fragile, but I know some people want completely plastic-free.”

The ticket book was recovered in early 2017 north of Mosul in the town of Tel Kaif, in a house that ISIS had turned into a police station.

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More surprisingly, the documents provide further evidence that the tax revenue the Islamic State earned far outstripped income from oil sales. It was daily commerce and agriculture — not petroleum — that powered the economy of the caliphate.

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In a two-week period the same year, he paid over $16,000 to the Islamic State trade division in the Dijlah district and $14,000 to the one in Kirkuk. He gave an $8,400 cash advance to the group’s Hawija office, $16,800 to the land department and $8,400 to the Islamic State province straddling the Euphrates River.

Omar Bilal Younes, a 42-year-old truck driver whose occupation allowed him to crisscross the caliphate, noticed the same improvement. “Garbage collection was No. 1 under ISIS,” he said, flashing a thumbs-up sign.

At this point, you might wonder, “How is this different from the deeply unpleasant sour candies my own beloved children torture themselves with?” The thing is, in salty-licorice countries, salmiakki is not some niche product marketed exclusively at kids. It’s a respectable treat option for all ages and demographics. In fact, some packages are marked “not licorice for children.” In Helsinki, I scouted at least a dozen convenience stores and groceries, and every candy section therein contained at least one full display rack, sometimes several, dedicated exclusively to salmiakki. Certain brands packaged themselves like breath mints, in stylish cardboard packs, to appeal directly to adults. Your classic Finnish salmiakki comes in the shape of a black diamond, but you can also find salty-licorice dragster wheels, pirate coins, farm animals, “witch whistles” (which look more like gray cigarette butts), pacifiers, pastilles, skulls, hockey pucks, octopi, long flat strips resembling squid-ink fettuccine and, of course, traditional Swedish fish.

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Cadbury reigns over the chocolate market in Pakistan; in 2017, Mondelez, its parent company, accounted for 66 percent of sales, in part because of the ultrapopular Dairy Milk chocolate bar. But CandyLand, the biggest candy company in the country, owns half the market for other confections. It’s also the largest producer of marshmallow in the country, including its Super Twister, a swirled rope of marshmallow with the color palette of a unicorn’s tail. The candy’s packaging was specifically designed to be attractive to children. An animated commercial for the candy has real-life kids swirling animated clouds and rainbows to create the pastel-colored sweet.